Fine tuning RapMan 3.2 - Hot End clearance

The RapMan gives us several tools to raise and lower the hot end relative to the bed.

The first, and most basic, way to set the distance between the hot end and the bed is a long screw that hangs down from the extruder assembly.  Each time we select the bed height option on the console, the printer homes the machine so that this bolt can activate a switch and then the printer uses that position to move to the center of the bed and lower the hot end to the position called for the bolt's length.

The manual calls for adjusting the hot end so that it barely touches the bed.  "Barely" is the operative term.  I'd like something a little more measurable.  To get the most precise setting, I decided to use a mechanic's tappet gauge.  So, I started with the 0.102mm leaf on the mechanic's gauge to get the hot end as close as I am able to measure. But, through trial and error, I found that my particular printer responded best (laying down an undistorted raft) at 0.254 for PLA.

Here are the steps I use.

1. Press the Z-Height Selection
2. Make sure the Z-Height Offset is 0
3. Try the 0.254 leaf of the gauge under the hot end.
4. If there is a lot of clearance, tighten the adjustment bolt.
5. If there is no clearance, loosen the adjustment bolt.
6. Exit Z-Height adjustment

Repeat the above steps until the gauge just slips under the hot end.  Do NOT make changes to the Z-Height offset.  You are setting the base point and will use the offset to further fine tune for different situations or special cases.

I understand the critical nature of getting the hot end (Z-Axis) height right for the raft.  But, it's still unclear to me that it makes much of a difference in subsequent layers as the Z-Axis increments should take care of itself in spite of the starting height as long as the height was sufficient to create a starting raft.

And, the optimal height for any given printer with any given material might be a bit different.  That is because the setting you end up using is the setting that is able to lay down a nice raft without tearing it or distorting it.

The point is that we can get more precise in by using tools, like a mechanic's tappet gauge, we are better able to control our printing environment on a repeatable basis.

Fine Tuning RapMan 3.2 - Precise Bed Leveling

Making sure that the RapMan 3.2 bed is level is probably among the most important things we can do to ensure better results.

The build manual and the display panel gives up some tools to level the bed using three bolts.

But, my eyes were having a hard time seeing the hot end height.  So, I decided to make some tools to help me do this more precisely.  First, I bought a set of mechanic's valve tappet gauges.  Using a gauge under the tool that I am going to describe is the most precise way to ensure that all points are even.

First the tools...

Bed Level Tools

 Basically, these two tools are hung over the X-Carrier rails and hang down.  The four points are an even length.  Here is how they are used.

Tools hung over at each end of the X-Carrier rails.

Notice that that a tappet gauge is being slipped under one of the pointed rods.  Adjust the height of the bed using the console until the gauge can be just slipped under the point.  It should NOT lift the tool.  Now, by simply using the bed leveling bolts, ensure that the gauge just slips under each of the other points.

Do this front and back.

Gauge being used at the back of the bed

These tools are a LOT easier to see than the tip of the hot end because you can place them so close to the edges of the adjustable bed assembly.  You can get up close and personal.

Finally, I had created an earlier set of alignment tools designed to do the same thing.  However, these sat on the bed, itself and had clips similar to those of the X/Y Carrier alignment tools.  I now use these just to verify that the bed is level.

Verifying that the bed is level

The latter step  is not really required.  I simply have the posts already and it's a good tactile way to verify that the bed is level.  Raise or lower the bed until one of the tools clips easily on the carrier rod and the other tool should also clip easily.

Once bed leveling is complete, we need to adjust the hot end height.  And, for that I also use the mechanic's tappet gauge.